In clinic, I ask nearly every patient the same question: “What sunscreen are you using?” The answer is very often “oh, just whatever’s in my moisturiser” or “I bought a supermarket one with a high number on it.” I understand why. SPF products all look fairly similar on the shelf, and most of us assume that once you’ve hit factor 50, you’re covered. I wish it were that simple. After years of treating sun damaged, pigmented and post-procedure skin, I can tell you with complete confidence that not all sun protection is created equal, and the sunscreen you choose can make or break the results of everything else you do for your skin.
Why the SPF number isn’t the whole story
Most people think of sunscreen purely in terms of UVB protection, which is what the SPF number actually measures. UVB rays are the ones responsible for sunburn. But UVA rays, which make up the majority of the UV radiation reaching us, penetrate far more deeply into the skin. They break down collagen and elastin, accelerate fine lines and are a major driver of pigmentation and premature ageing. A product can carry a high SPF number and still offer patchy UVA protection, which is why I always tell patients to look for the words “broad spectrum” rather than focusing on the SPF figure alone.
There’s more to it than UV as well. We now know that high energy visible light, the blue light emitted by our phones, laptops and the sun itself, and infrared radiation can both contribute to pigmentation, particularly in patients with melasma or darker skin tones. Standard sunscreens, especially the cheaper chemical ones, were never designed with this in mind. This is one of the reasons I moved away from recommending generic, off the shelf sunscreens to my cosmetic patients some years ago and started using ZO Skin Health’s sun protection range almost exclusively in clinic.
UV & Blue Light Rays
The problem with “ordinary” sunscreen for cosmetic patients
A large part of my work involves chemical peels, laser treatments, microneedling and other procedures that leave the skin temporarily more reactive and vulnerable. In this state, a poor quality sunscreen isn’t just inadequate, it can actively work against healing. Many high street formulations rely heavily on chemical filters that can irritate compromised skin, sit uncomfortably under makeup, or leave a heavy, occlusive film that clogs pores. I’ve lost count of the number of patients who’ve told me they stopped wearing sunscreen daily simply because every one they tried felt unpleasant. That, to me, is the real failure of sun protection. The best SPF in the world is useless if nobody wants to wear it.
Why I favour ZO Skin Health’s SPFs
ZO Skin Health, developed under the guidance of Dr Zein Obagi, takes a rather more considered approach, and it’s the range I stock and recommend most in my own clinic. What sets it apart is what ZO calls Triple Spectrum Protection, a combination of physical zinc oxide, plant derived melanin and their antioxidant complex ZOX12, which together defend against UVA, UVB, blue light and infrared damage, not just sunburn. That’s a genuinely different proposition from a standard drugstore sunscreen.
ZO Skin Health SPF
A few of the products I reach for most often
ZO Sheer Fluid Broad-Spectrum Sunscreen SPF50 is probably my favourite for patients with normal to combination skin. It contains 22% zinc oxide alongside melanin and ZOX12, and it also includes soothing ingredients like bisabolol, along with glycerin and argan seed oil to support the skin barrier. It has a genuinely sheer, natural finish, which matters enormously for patient compliance. Nobody wants to look like they’re wearing a mask.
ZO Daily Sheer SPF50 is a wonderful everyday option, particularly for patients who are active outdoors, as it offers around eighty minutes of water and sweat resistance without feeling greasy.
ZO Oclipse Sunscreen + Primer SPF30 does double duty as a makeup primer, which I recommend to patients who want to streamline their morning routine. Skipping steps is often what leads to skipping sunscreen altogether, so anything that makes the habit easier is worth its weight in gold.
There’s also a Smart Tone option for patients who want a hint of coverage, and a Sunscreen + Powder for easy reapplication over makeup during the day, something almost nobody actually does but really should.
I remember one patient in particular, a lady in her early fifties who came to see me convinced her skin was simply “getting worse with age” despite a fairly disciplined anti-ageing routine. When I asked about sunscreen, she admitted she only wore it on beach holidays. We swapped her onto ZO Sheer Fluid SPF50 as part of a wider plan that included a course of peels, and within six months the difference in her pigmentation and overall skin tone was obvious, not because the peels were doing anything magical, but because her skin was finally being protected between treatments rather than undoing the good work every time she stepped outside. It’s a pattern I see repeatedly, and it’s why I consider daily sunscreen non-negotiable for anyone serious about their skin.
What I tell my patients
Sun protection isn’t just about preventing burning on holiday. In the UK, with our famously unpredictable weather, people often assume they don’t need daily SPF, but UVA rays pass through cloud and glass all year round. I see the consequences of this assumption every week in clinic, in the form of pigmentation, texture changes and premature lines that could largely have been prevented. If you’re investing in peels, injectables, laser treatments or simply want to protect your skin as you age, a proper broad spectrum sunscreen isn’t optional, it’s the foundation everything else is built on.
My advice is straightforward. Use a sunscreen that offers genuine broad spectrum protection against UVA and UVB, ideally one that also addresses blue light and environmental damage if you spend a lot of time on screens or outdoors. Apply it generously, a full teaspoon for the face and neck is the usual guide, and reapply through the day if you’re outside for long periods. And choose a formula you actually enjoy wearing, because consistency matters more than any single ingredient.
I’ve seen enough sun damaged skin over the years to know that this is one area where cutting corners simply doesn’t pay off. If you’d like advice on which ZO Skin Health sunscreen suits your skin type, or you’d like to discuss a wider skin health plan, do come and see us at the clinic. It’s a conversation I never tire of having, because good sun protection really is the single best thing you can do for your skin, whatever else is in your routine.
